Wanton - Seng's Noodle Bar

By day, Wanton keeps things at a low simmer, offering the classic recipes favoured by the loyal patrons of Seng’s Wanton Mee, an institution that’s been dishing out bowls of famous noodles at the Dunman Food Centre for a good half-century. Come evening, the traditional hawker stall vibe begins to transform into something distinctly modern and oh-so SIngaporean – a cosmopolitan blend of the stoic, traditionalist ethos of Seng’s original noodle bar and the culinary future-thinking that has made hospitality industry stalwarts The Establishment – the team that has spearheaded this Telok Ayer noodle bar and restaurant’s genesis – a byword when it comes to innovative cuisine in the city. By the time the sun has set, Wanton’s Amoy Street premises are packed with curious foodies catching on to the new wave of wanton noodles.

Lunchtime is best kept simple, with Wanton’s house wanton noodles with char siew, or wanton noodles with roast pork belly on the menu. There is always an ace in the hole at this Telok Ayer noodle bar and restaurant, though, represented by the Power Wanton Noodles daily special. You’ve been warned: try it and find yourself a Wanton addict. The secret behind the astronomical success of Singapore’s preeminent nouveau noodle house is undoubtedly the way that The Establishment’s mastermind and chef Brandon Teo has met chef Benson Ng on the noodly battlefield and taken the classic Seng’s Wanton Mee to new heights. Begin with a bowl of plain egg noodles or the trademarked Nudles (don’t ask us, ask Wanton) and add your choice of premium sides: shrimp dumplings, boiled or fried wantons, barbecued char siew, the exotic fried spicy whole quail or slow-braised pigs’ trotters, Batalong egg with spicy mayonnaise, the seafoody steamed baby kailan with Gangster sauce, braised mushrooms and scallops, or the vegetarian version with Japanese cucumbers with dou miao and a sauce that tips its brim to Amoy Street, where Wanton has very thankfully put down roots. It’s a breathless list, and indeed a meal at Wanton’s Telok Ayer premises is thirsty work. Thankfully there’s Asahi on tap, signature cocktails, wines, house pour spirits, and – the best accompaniment – a handful of craft beers available by the bottle.